Boughton's Coffee House - the news magazine for the cafe trade
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Building a coffee menu - cafetiere coffees. - Jeremy Torz, Union Coffee Roasters’ Roastmaster.
There’s simply no point in a hotel trying to punt out espresso drinks unless you’re prepared to significantly invest. Espresso requires excellent equipment, skill and attention to detail – day in, day out. If coffee is not your core business it’s worthwhile considering the time and capital demands carefully. Better to do simple things well. Get customers remembering the quality of coffee, not the mode of preparation.
Yet it’s at this point most get sucked into the ‘free espresso machine’ deal. Just remember before you sign there’s no such thing as a free lunch. You’ll always end up paying it back some way. Often it is through an inflated price for an inferior coffee. Remember, the key thing is to create a memorable experience for the customer to return. And that’s done through the detail – in this case, the coffee’s quality.
So just because everyone’s baying for cappuccino don’t get sucked in. Instead, play to your environment’s strengths. Hotels have an excellent, relaxed setting which craves a different method of service. People are more likely to be in couples or groups, and remain for longer periods. So step forward the cafetiere or decanted filter pot.
Either method of service is especially suited to a hotel environment, for all the reasons above. But what’s most important is the cost savings on equipment. A cafetiere service is very inexpensive to run, and not half as demanding as espresso. Moreover, and more importantly, it introduces variety. In nearly all cases, espresso is limited to a single blend – prepared different ways. A well-run filter or cafetiere service should easily be able to handle 3 coffees at a time – possibly four.
So make your reputation by serving quality coffee and invest in this. Look to serve coffees with characters, with stories to tell. Lead by origin and estate. Provide tasting notes and intrigue on the menu. Then, when you’re comfortable with your coffee selection, look to recommend – or switch service during the day. Light, vibrant, fruity coffees in the morning – heavy, full and dark coffees after dinner. Opportunities abound for the hoteliers. Just invest in the coffee, not the equipment.
Jeremy’s Recommendations
When selecting appropriate coffees from our range, I’ve looked to offer variance and contrasts. Even at the same time of the day, people want different things. People have different tastes, so play to these. I’ve also selected single estates only. Place, personality and diversity will stick in the minds of the guest and draw them back.
Coffees for breakfast:
For breakfast some will want a gentle wake-up call; others, a heady, aromatic brew to kick start their day into action. These two coffees are both from the same continent, yet are miles apart in terms of character. Enjoy our Rwanda for its milk chocolate sweetness and citrus vibrancy, which lifts the soul but doesn’t clamour the palate. On the other hand Kenya is great for those who enjoy bold flavours, an intense bite and real depth to get them going.
Rwanda Maraba Bourbon (Fairtrade) – Abahuzamugambi Ba Kawa Co-operative This fruity and deeply chocolate smooth coffee comes from an amazing group of smallholder farmers in the beautiful Maraba district of southwest Rwanda. We have been working alongside the Abahuzamugambi Ba Kawa co-operative for over two years and have made many visits helping to develop the quality of their coffee and gain them Fairtrade status. On a personal level, our work here has been highly rewarding and has been a testament to how sharing of knowledge and friendship can help to revitalise communities. This coffee marked the first time that Rwanda had ever produced a truly fine gourmet coffee capable of being enjoyed unblended.
KENYA AA - Komothai Coffee Farmers Co-operative Once a producer of legendary coffees Kenya has slipped from its pedestal over recent years as a result of repeated droughts and a plundering of the agricultural co-operative system by the former government. With support from the new government however, young farmers are coming to realise that they have to restore the coffee to its former glory to get the best prices. Through them and fresh committed professionals at the Kenya Coffee Board, we have been able to find the Kamothai group based in the Muranga district. Union Coffee Roasters are now working directly with this community to source a true AA grade (the largest bean with the most pronounced and clean flavours) that sings of its former glory with heady aromas, deep blackcurrant and fresh zesty grapefruit flavour notes.
Coffees through the day:
Through the day, we’re looking for brews which have balance and can complement a variety of foods. I’ve selected Brazil because it is a coffee everyone loves – extremely well rounded and smooth, with sweet nutty tones. Great with a Danish pastry at 10am. Ethiopia, on the other hand, is lighter yet brighter – sweet lemon and floral tones explode on the palate. This is ideal for those who need a fragrant lift at key points in the day. Not only that, it’s a stunning coffee with a character unlike any other, instantly memorable.
Brazil Lambari farm Owned by the Rebetez Mariani family and located in the south of Minas Gerais state near the city of Pocos de Caldas (Hot Springs), this farm produces coffee that is a consistent finalist in the National ‘Cup of Excellence’ competition. Lambari is a ‘model farm’ with exemplary commitments to social and environmental programmes having its own school for 360 children which also takes children from other local farms. All farm workers receive salaries substantially above Brazils’ minimum wage plus weekly food baskets, free dental clinic, employment insurance and pensions. The coffee is harvested using the ‘natural process’, where a small amount of the cherry fruit is left on the bean so the sugars are absorbed during drying. This produces an incredibly sweet, rounded cup with tones of cocoa and almonds, which yields a flavoursome wake-up call and is delicious all through the day but particularly with sweet pastry.
Ethiopia Yirgacheffe - Konga co-operative (Fairtrade / Organic) Coffee has been grown in this region of Ethiopia in an organic manner for generations. This year however marks the first harvest that this has been formally recognized with the adoption of internationally agreed standards, and we are now able to market Konga’s coffee under the Soil Association Certification. In addition, Fairtrade accreditation has been provided to the co-operative and we are delighted to assist this group in developing their coffee for excellence and sustainability. See Organics section for full description.
Coffees for after dark:
After dinner, it’s good to have a wider selection. With different foods and styles of cooking on the menu, it’s important you can offer a line-up to suit. I’ve picked out three which show just how you can meet your customer’s personal choice, and also dovetail to suit the menu.
First up, Colombia. At first glance, this coffee’s medium body and balance would indicate a breakfast or day time brew. While that works, this shines out after dinner. Within the cup is a subtle red-wineyness to the finish, a great statement to an end of a meal. Guatemala Santa Ana la Huerta has rich dark chocolate tones but a red fruit punch – offering contrast and a slightly more complex style. Good with rich desserts and can hold its own against even the strongest cheeses. Sumatra is king of the deep bodied, intense coffees. Peaty, dark and bold, line this cup up against a glass of Cognac or fine Cohiba cigar.
Colombia Supremo - Timaná co-operative In recent years the quality of Colombia coffee had deteriorated—until now! Small producers are emerging from under the wing of the National Coffee Federation to offer exceptional coffee. Timaná was formed in 2001 when families of coffee producers in Huila joined forces to create a cooperative, improve the quality of their coffee and work towards the principles of environmental sustainability. The coffee is “shade-grown” in forest-like plantations providing a habitat for indigenous and migratory birds whilst also preventing soil erosion and improving water conservation. The coffee is extremely well balanced and unusually clean with just a leading edge of citrus zest and a sweet chocolate rounded body. Timana also has a gentle red wine after-note that so lacking in today’s Colombian coffees. Smooth and elegant for all day easy drinking or after dinner relaxing.
Guatemala - Santa Ana La Huerta farm Grown by Rony Asensio and Luis Pedro Zelaya on their family-owned farm, (Santa Ana La Huerta) located in an undeveloped portion of Guatemala called Sierra de Las Minas about three hours north-east of Guatemala City. Union Coffee Roasters have committed to purchase from Santa Ana La Huerta at a sustainable price so that Rony and his family can continue to live their dream by producing high quality coffee and improving the living and working conditions for the farm workers. Santa Ana La Huerta is exclusive to Union Coffee Roasters; the coffee reveals all that is great about Guatemalan coffee with lively, complex flavour tones of honey, chocolate and spice with medium body and faintly smoky overtones.
Sumatra Extra Fancy – Aceh High mountain, Pondok Gajah With relatively low acidity (just enough to keep the cup vibrant) our Sumatra Extra Fancy is intensely fragrant with a herbal chocolate aroma. The natural dry milling process creates an unusually concentrated, peaty-earthy flavour with a hint of fresh green oak. Sumatra is the most popular of the Indonesian Arabicas and our search for a good crop is always a challenge. Our current selection is farmed in the uplands of the Aceh province, where the climate is wet and cool and the soils richly fertile. We’ve named it Extra Fancy because this is a specially selected pick of the crop, delivering a deep, rich and very smooth cup.
(Both our Decaf Blends are based on Indonesian coffees.)
Jeremy Torz, Union Coffee Roasters London Tel: 020 7474 8990
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